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Chocolate isn’t just chocolate anymore, especially with Krak Chocolade and Moersleutel joining forces to craft unparalleled cocoa-infused beers. Mark Schimmel, the visionary behind Krak Chocolade in the Netherlands, spearheads this venture with a passion for authenticity and flavor diversity. In this co-written blog post he will tell you all there is to know about craft chocolate and how it impacts our beer.
“The lack of taste of this “bulk” cacao is mostly masked by adding a lot of sugar or fancy additions.”
I am Mark Schimmel the owner and founder of Krak Chocolade in the Netherlands. Cacao is as diverse as coffee and wine, with influence from the genetics, terroir, and post-harvesting processes like fermentation will affect the taste of the cocoa. This is where I am coming in. I select fermented and dried cocoa. The cocoa must be roasted, refined, and conched into chocolate. All these steps have a huge effect on the final flavor of the chocolate.
Industrial processed chocolate that you can find in the supermarkets, are made from cocoa hybrids designed to grow fast, have big yields, and are resistant to the most common diseases. All this is to grow as fast as possible to get enough for the high demand for chocolate candy bars. This cocoa is processed in the big factories by roasting it at a high temperature and separating the cocoa butter and cocoa powder. With a chemical process, they neutralize the cocoa butter from flavor and smell. This is because the pharmaceutical industry pays a lot for the melting characteristics. It melts just below body temperature. The only flavor of the cocoa powder is bitter. This is how we all remember the dark(bitter) chocolate. The lack of taste of this “bulk” cacao is mostly masked by adding a lot of sugar or fancy additions like popcorn or salted caramel. This has nothing to do with the original flavor of cocoa that grows into the normal biodiversity and is the “fine flavored” old genetics.
Moersleutel and Krak are teaming up to show you that cocoa is more than over-processed chocolate. We select old genetics and newer hybrids that are grown by farmers for their flavor and quality. Are fermented and dried by specialists.
“Together with the Moersleutel, we select the origins to create the best beers.”
This “fine flavor” cocoa has a wide range of flavors. It can be earthy, fruity, floral, or nutty and all origins, old genetics, or hybrids have a different flavor profile. Our goal is to stay as close to the origin itself and let the cocoa be the star! It already has so many flavors. I am roasting the cocoa at a low temperature, to get rid of the acidity and to keep the fresh flavors. Together with the Moersleutel, we select the origins to create the best beers.
You will find in the Guild box a chocolate bar created by me with beans from Belize. I roasted the beans and refined them with 30% unrefined cane sugar from Tanzania. Sit down, break a piece of chocolate, and let it melt on your tongue. A flavor journey will start! I am not talking about flavor notes, better to explore it yourself. The cacao is from Peini plantation in Belize and crafted in the Krak factory, Ermelo. The Netherlands
“Through precision and innovation, I strive to push the boundaries of traditional chocolate-making.”
People often inquire about my role as a ‘chocolate maker’ and its distinction from the neighboring chocolatier. As a chocolate maker, I meticulously craft chocolate from raw cocoa beans, emphasizing transparency, authenticity, and direct relationships with cocoa farmers. Unlike chocolatiers who work with pre-made chocolate, my process begins with sourcing high-quality beans globally. Through precision and innovation, I strive to push the boundaries of traditional chocolate-making, ensuring each creation reflects excellence and the rich history of chocolate.
At the tender age of 14, my introduction to the enchanting world of chocolate commenced at a quaint local patisserie. Initially entrusted with the humble responsibility of cleansing chocolate bowls, I eagerly embraced every opportunity to immerse myself in the craft. Gradually, under the guidance of seasoned pastry chefs, I transitioned from mere observer to active participant, honing my skills through the creation of tantalizing mousse parfaits and gradually venturing into the realm of intricate chocolate decorations and exquisite bonbons. Each task, no matter how modest, served as a stepping stone in my journey towards mastering the art of chocolate making, igniting a lifelong passion for the sweet alchemy that transforms raw cocoa into delectable treats.
I was amazed at how versatile chocolate is – both as a flavor enhancer and a shiny decoration. You can crystallize the cocoa butter from the chocolate and create astounding creations, and even the chocolates look like art! That was the moment I realized how incredible chocolate is! Over the years, I moved into restaurant pastry work, where chocolate made desserts extra special. I’ve worked as a pastry chef in several Michelin-starred restaurants, up to three stars at the Troisgros family’s establishment in Rouane, France. During those years, I was always engaged in understanding how different products are composed and what their specific properties are, often in collaboration with food technologists. Working at this level, you often become an ambassador for one of the major chocolate brands. What always struck me was how elusive chocolate brands are about the production of chocolate.
“My first steps were to find cocoa beans and the machinery to produce them on a small scale. In 2012, I made my first chocolate.”
In 2011, I started my own pastry label, and chocolates quickly became a steady income source. Melting chocolate and adding a unique signature to it involves the mold, the cocoa butter colors, and flavor additions. This process takes you further and further away from the original product: the chocolate. All great chefs want to know where their piece of meat comes from, what the animal ate, and even its name. However, when it comes to chocolate, they talk about ‘bitter chocolate.’ This is the only specification they give about chocolate to the guest. This is, of course, ignorance, and supported by the large chocolate manufacturers, no further thought is given beyond this. For me, this was the moment to start researching what happens before the bag of chocolate everyone can buy. This is where my genuine love for chocolate began. In 2011, I wanted to be self-sufficient in the chocolate I used, and I wanted to make it myself. My first steps were to find cocoa beans and the machinery to produce them on a small scale. In 2012, I made my first chocolate.
Join me on an immersive journey through the past decade as we unveil the milestones, innovations, and aspirations that have defined our chocolate-making legacy. From our humble beginnings to our vision for the future, I invite you to witness firsthand the dedication, craftsmanship, and unwavering commitment to authenticity that underpins every creation. Follow KRAK on social media for more updates as I embark on this enlightening exploration of chocolate’s journey.
Thank you for reading,
Mark Schimmel – Owner of KRAK
Dive into the world of exceptional flavors. During our interview with Mark Schimmel, the passionate force behind Krak Chocolade, we explore the art of craft chocolate and its remarkable synergy with our craft beer. Both crafts are driven by passion and curiosity to what more is possible, whilst celebrating the good in life.
Enjoy! ???